Bay of Islands Travel Guide

Exploring the Bay of Islands: A Local Travel Guide to History and Island Life

If you’re heading north from Auckland, you’re basically chasing the sun. The Bay of Islands (or Pēwhairangi) is a massive aquatic playground with 144 islands—Urupukapuka is the biggest one if you’re counting—and it has a pretty cool “firsts” vibe. It was the first place in NZ where Europeans actually stuck around and built permanent homes back in 1814.

The lifestyle up here is super chilled. It’s all about the water—surfing, diving, and sailing. But what makes it special is how the history is just… there. You’ve got this mix of ancient Maori roots and colonial history everywhere you look.

A Glimpse Into the Past

The Bay of Islands holds a special place in the story of Aotearoa. It is believed that Polynesian voyagers first discovered these shores in the 11th century. Fast forward to 1769, and Captain James Cook arrived, paving the way for the first permanent European settlement in 1814.

The region’s history is most famously anchored by the Treaty of Waitangi, signed here in 1840. Today, you can still feel this legacy through the beautifully preserved colonial buildings and a Maori culture that is vibrant and deeply integrated into daily life (nearly a third of the local population is Maori).

Pro Tip: If you want to dive deeper into the fascinating stories of the early encounters between Maori and Europeans, check out the Waitangi Blog.

The Lowdown on Paihia: Your Island Hub

Paihia is the main gateway for any Bay of Islands trip. It maintains a high-energy beach-town vibe while serving as the central transport hub.

The Wharf: This is where you’ll catch ferries and cruises. It’s packed with cafes and bars, perfect for watching the boats come in.
Sullivan’s Beach: While the main beach is great for a quick dip, take a short walk to Sullivan’s Beach for a quieter, more secluded experience.
The Atmosphere: It’s a mix of backpackers, families, and “boaties.” It isn’t “fancy,” but it is definitely the heart of the action.

Just up the road: Kerikeri

A quick drive from Paihia takes you to Kerikeri. While Paihia is all about the beach, Kerikeri feels lush, green, and a bit more “boutique.” Here’s how I’d spend a day there:

The Stone Store & Kemp House: Start at the basin to see NZ’s oldest stone building and the neighboring mission house. This former missionary storehouse is a charming piece of history that makes you feel like you’ve stepped back into the 1830s. It’s a peaceful spot for a photo and a quick history fix.
Rainbow Falls (Waianiwaniwa): You can’t miss this one. It’s a spectacular 27-meter waterfall that’s super easy to get to. There are several lookout points, and if the sun hits the mist just right, you’ll see exactly how it got its name.
Local Favourites: Markets and Swimming Holes – If you visit on a Saturday, The Old Packhouse Market is a must for local produce and live music. For a sweet treat, head to Makana Confections to watch handmade chocolates being created. Finally, if you want to escape the crowds, Charlie’s Rock is a stunning local swimming hole surrounded by basalt rock formations.

My Top Picks: What to See & Do

1. The “Hole in the Rock” & Dolphin Cruises

I took the cruise with Fullers to see the iconic “Hole in the Rock.” The scenery was fantastic. Additionally, a major highlight was stepping off the boat to explore Urupukapuka Island. We went for a short hike up the hills. The views from the top were breathtaking. Afterward, we enjoyed a relaxed lunch by the clear water. It felt like a true island escape. However, I have an insider heads-up about the dolphins.

Under current regulations, larger commercial boats have strict rules about deviating from their course to follow dolphins. We saw them from a distance, but smaller tour operators seemed to get much closer. If seeing dolphins up close is your main priority, look into the smaller, specialized eco-tours!

2. Russell: The “Hellhole” Turned Paradise

It’s hard to believe that the peaceful town of Russell was once the “Hellhole of the Pacific.” In the early 1800s, it was a lawless frontier for whalers and sailors. Today, it is an Instagram-friendly village.

Visit the Duke of Marlborough: It holds New Zealand’s first liquor license!
Christ Church: Look for the musket holes in the walls from the 1845 Battle of Kororāreka.
Getting there: Take the passenger ferry from Paihia; it runs every 20 minutes and takes only 15 minutes.

3. Waitangi Treaty Grounds

If you have any interest in how modern New Zealand came to be, this is a must-visit. The museum and the grounds themselves are moving, educational, and offer a unique insight into the country’s bicultural foundations.

Paihia waterfront, Bay of Islands: white colonial buildings and wharf with cafés, blue boat in turquoise harbour, green hills and cloudy blue sky, New Zealand. — Paihia Wharf in the Bay of Islands, New Zealand – charming white waterfront buildings, cafés, and shops along the harbour, with a blue cruise boat docked and green hills rising behind under a sunny sky.
The photo depicts a vibrant waterfront scene in Paihia, the main hub of the Bay of Islands, Northland, New Zealand. Viewed from the water, it shows the iconic Paihia Wharf lined with a row of charming white and light-colored colonial-style buildings, shops, and eateries.Wooden piers and jetties extend into the calm turquoise-green harbor, with multiple docking points. In the foreground, a distinctive blue-and-white passenger boat (possibly a scenic cruise or ferry like those offering dolphin tours) is moored or maneuvering near the wharf.

Sweeping elevated view across the Bay of Islands – rolling green slopes, native forest, small rocky islets, calm blue waters, distant hilly islands, and a red-white boat in the bay, Bay of Islands, NZ. — Panoramic vista over the Bay of Islands, New Zealand – lush green headlands, scattered bush-clad islands, turquoise waters, and a lone boat gliding through the scenic archipelago under a partly cloudy sky.
The photo presents a breathtaking panoramic overlook of the Bay of Islands, Northland, New Zealand, captured from an elevated hillside viewpoint (likely a popular scenic spot such as near Paihia, Opua Forest Lookout, or a similar trail offering sweeping vistas). In the foreground, lush green grassy slopes and dense native bush/forest cover rolling hills and headlands, with patches of coastal scrub and trees leading down to rocky shores. Small, verdant islands and islets dot the turquoise-blue waters of the bay, featuring bush-covered tops, sandy coves, and rugged coastlines. The expansive inner bay stretches out with calm, varying shades of aqua and deep blue sea, dotted with a single small red-and-white boat (fishing or tour vessel) motoring across the water. In the distance, layered rolling green hills and more islands fade into hazy horizons under a bright partly cloudy sky, evoking the classic subtropical beauty of the 144-island archipelago.

Rainbow Falls Kerikeri: 27m waterfall with vibrant rainbow in mist, lush green bush and rocky gorge, Bay of Islands, New Zealand. — Rainbow Falls (Waianiwaniwa) near Kerikeri, Bay of Islands – 27m waterfall plunging into a misty pool with a brilliant rainbow in the spray, surrounded by lush Northland native bush on a sunny day.
The photo showcases the stunning Rainbow Falls (Māori name: Waianiwaniwa, meaning "Waters of the Rainbow") on the Kerikeri River near Kerikeri in the Bay of Islands, Northland, New Zealand. This 27-meter-high single-drop waterfall cascades powerfully over a basalt cliff edge into a misty plunge pool below, creating a vibrant rainbow in the spray from the sunlight hitting the mist. The falls are framed by lush native bush and dense green forest canopy, with rocky basalt outcrops, ferns, and overhanging trees surrounding the scene. The viewpoint appears to be from an elevated lookout across the gorge, capturing the curved rim of the falls, the dark pool at the base, the rainbow arc, and the vibrant greenery under a partly cloudy blue sky – a classic sunny-day spectacle that gives the falls their name.

Hole in the Rock natural arch formation on Motukōkako Island, Bay of Islands, New Zealand – rugged sea-eroded rock with large tunnel opening, green vegetation, calm blue ocean, and partly cloudy sky. — conic Hole in the Rock (Motukōkako) – natural sea arch on Piercy Island off Cape Brett, Bay of Islands, New Zealand. A must-see natural wonder eroded by waves over centuries, viewed from the water under a bright sky.
The photo captures the iconic Hole in the Rock (Māori: Motukōkako / Piercy Island), a dramatic natural sea arch formation off Cape Brett in the Bay of Islands, Northland, New Zealand. This famous landmark features a large, eroded tunnel/archway through a rugged, steep-sided rocky island covered in patches of green vegetation and scrub. The main rock rises prominently with jagged cliffs, a prominent arched opening at sea level large enough for boats to pass through under calm conditions, and surrounding smaller rock outcrops or islets nearby. The scene is viewed from the water on a clear day, with calm blue ocean in the foreground, the island centered against a partly cloudy sky, and distant hazy horizon lines suggesting the open Pacific beyond.

Historic stone Kemp House (1822), New Zealand's oldest European building, on the waterfront at Kerikeri Basin, Bay of Islands, with calm water, jetty, and lush greenery under a partly cloudy sky. — Kemp House (Kerikeri Mission House, built 1822) – New Zealand's oldest surviving building, viewed from across the Kerikeri Basin, Bay of Islands. Part of the historic Kerikeri Mission Station alongside the nearby Stone Store.
The photo captures a scenic view across the water of the Kerikeri Basin (Kerikeri Inlet) in the Bay of Islands, New Zealand, featuring the historic Kemp House (also known as Kerikeri Mission House).In the foreground is calm water reflecting the blue sky with light clouds, a small wooden jetty/dock with railings on the left, and stone retaining walls along the water's edge lined with reddish foliage and greenery. The setting highlights the peaceful, historic waterfront location of the Kerikeri Mission Station. (c) Anna Jackowska

Sunny view along the Kerikeri Basin promenade: avenue of red-flowering pōhutukawa trees arching over the walkway, classic white colonial houses, beached dinghies, and serene inlet waters with distant boats and hills. — Scenic waterfront promenade in Kerikeri, Bay of Islands – shaded by blooming pōhutukawa trees, lined with historic white cottages, and overlooking the calm inlet with boats and distant marina.
The photo depicts a picturesque waterfront promenade in Kerikeri, Bay of Islands, New Zealand,A wide, paved pathway runs parallel to the calm turquoise water, shaded by a row of large, mature pōhutukawa trees. On the left are charming historic or colonial-style white weatherboard houses and cottages with gabled roofs, picket fences, and verandas. In the foreground on the right, several small boats (including a blue one and white dinghies) rest on a grassy/pebbly shore beside the water. A person in a red shirt walks along the path, adding scale and life to the sunny scene. In the background, distant docks, boats, and hilly green landscapes complete the idyllic coastal view under a bright blue sky with scattered clouds.

Historic white Gothic Revival Custom House built 1870, now private, with Christmas decorations and Moreton Bay Fig tree, Russell, New Zealand — View of the 1870 Custom House (former Russell Police Station) in Russell, Bay of Islands – white wooden colonial building with verandah, festive holiday trimmings, picket fence.
The photo shows a charming historic white wooden house in Russell, Bay of Islands, New Zealand. This Gothic Revival-style building, originally constructed in 1870 as the Custom House (designed by colonial architect W.H. Clayton), later served as the town's Police Station and residence. It features a steep gabled roof, decorative arched bargeboards, wrap-around verandah with ornate brackets and posts wrapped in festive candy-cane decorations, white picket fence, and holiday adornments like Christmas stockings, bows, and baubles.

Escape the Crowds: The Scenic Route

If you have a bit of extra time driving up to The Bay of Islands, I highly recommend getting off State Highway 1. In Whakapara, turn onto Russell Road for a much more scenic journey.

Helena Bay: Stop here for the lovely café and art gallery. Helena Bay gallery
Oakura & Elliot Bay: Perfect for a quick swim and a stroll. The views at Elliot Bay are simply gorgeous.
Oke Bay: This is my absolute favorite spot. It’s tucked away from the main tourist hubs, and if you visit in December, the agapanthuses are in full bloom—it is an incredibly “Instagrammable” paradise!

Elevated view of the turquoise water and white sand beach at Elliot Bay, New Zealand, surrounded by rolling green hills. — The stunning, clear waters of Elliot Bay.
A high-angle panoramic view of Elliot Bay showcasing the vibrant turquoise sea, a pristine sandy beach, and the rugged green topography of the Northland coast. The foreground features lush green shrubbery looking down towards the bay under a bright blue sky. Photo credit: Anna Jackowska.

Turquoise waves crashing onto the sandy shore of Elliot Bay, New Zealand, with lush green rolling hills under a clear blue sky. — Summer swells and emerald hills at Elliot Bay.
A high-angle landscape view of Elliot Bay beach featuring vibrant blue water, white sea foam, and dark foreground rocks. The background shows the iconic Northland coastal topography with steep green hills and scattered trees. Photo credit: Anna Jackowska

Lush tropical garden in the foreground looking out over a deep green valley toward Helena Bay and the ocean under a blue sky with white clouds. — The breathtaking valley view from Helena Bay Cafe.
A wide-angle landscape shot taken from an elevated position. The foreground is filled with vibrant tropical plants, including banana palms and large-leafed greenery. The midground shows a vast, densely forested valley leading the eye toward the distant coastline of Helena Bay and the blue Pacific Ocean. The sky is bright with a mix of clear blue and soft, white cloud cover. Photo credit: Anna Jackowska.

A large wooden sculpture of two sleeping owls carved from a single log, sitting on a tiled patio outside a gallery. — The "Oak Owls" sculpture by Susan Dinkelacker at Helena Bay Gallery.
A vertical shot of a rustic wooden carving titled "Oak Owls". The sculpture depicts two owls huddled together and is displayed outside the Helena Bay Hill Gallery, positioned next to climbing green vines and a window reflecting the gallery's interior.

A view of Helena Bay beach framed by dark tree branches, showing a calm shoreline, two people, and a wooden bench on a grassy area. — Finding shade and a view at Helena Bay.
A coastal landscape shot looking out toward Helena Bay from a shaded grassy area. Dark tree branches frame the top of the image, which includes a simple wooden bench, a rope fence, a sandy shoreline with two people, and calm blue water under a bright sky.

Close-up of a large Norfolk Pine tree trunk on a grassy hill overlooking a calm beach and ocean at sunset. — Golden hour glow beneath the branches of a coastal Norfolk Pine.
A landscape photograph featuring the thick, textured trunk of a Norfolk Island Pine in the foreground. The tree sits on a sunlit grassy slope that leads down to a narrow beach and calm bay. The warm afternoon light creates long shadows and highlights the coastal scenery. Photo credit: Anna Jackowska

Turquoise Oke Bay in New Zealand framed by purple agapanthus flowers, lush green hills, and two boats anchored in the calm water. — A quiet turquoise bay dotted with boats, framed by summer blooms and native bush in New Zealand.
A vibrant coastal scene showing crystal-clear turquoise water gently meeting a secluded sandy shore. In the foreground, clusters of blooming purple agapanthus spill down a sunlit hillside, while pōhutukawa and native bush frame the edges. Across the bay, steep green hills rise above the calm sea, where a sailboat and a small motorboat rest peacefully at anchor. The image captures the warmth and tranquillity of a pristine New Zealand summer’s day.

Caves, Coffee, and Quirky Toilets

A Coffee Stop in Kawakawa

On the way back to Auckland, we drove through Kawakawa and stopped for a coffee. In my native language, kawaliterally means “coffee”, which made me smile.

The World’s Most Artistic Restrooms

While there, we obviously had to use the town’s famous Hundertwasser toilets—probably the only public restrooms in the world that are a legitimate art gallery!

A Detour to the Kawiti Glowworm Caves

As we left, we detoured toward the Kawiti Glowworm Caves We wanted to show the glowing little creatures to our family visiting us from Europe, and decided to go in ourselves too. The last time we saw glowworms was eight years ago on the South Island, and we had forgotten the details.

Life in the Dark: Nature’s Little Stars

I was genuinely surprised by how engaging our guide was, explaining the life cycle of the glowworm (technically a fly) that spends most of its life as a larva. It glows at the end of its tail to lure other insects! Photos are not allowed inside, of course, so you do not disturb the cave’s tiny residents, but it’s easy to imagine it like standing in complete darkness at night, looking up at a sky full of stars, which is something I also recommend doing in New Zealand.

A Survival Tip for the Road 🤢

The drive up North is stunning—but be prepared for plenty of twists and turns. If you suffer from motion sickness like I do, don’t forget to pack your trusted meds or those acupressure wristbands. They were a lifesaver for me on those coastal bends!

Final Thoughts on My Northland Adventure

In summary, the Northland region is a perfect mix of culture and natural beauty. This Bay of Islands guide only scratches the surface of what you can experience here. From the historic streets of Russell to the glowing magic of the Kawiti Caves, every stop felt special. Specifically, the blend of subtropical weather and rich history makes it a unique destination.

However, there are still many places left to discover in this stunning area. I know for certain that I will be back sometime to explore further. Whether you want a quiet beach or a deep dive into the past, this region always delivers.

Are you more of a history buff or a waterfall chaser? Let me know your travel style in the comments!